Worth of Paris
Worth of Paris
In 1894, Mrs Wombwell and her daughter Almina, the future Countess of Carnarvon, were to be found in Paris visiting the House of Worth to choose a wedding dress and trousseau. The wedding date had been set for 26th June 1895. Charles Frederick Worth dominated Parisian fashion in the latter half of the nineteenth century. He was however an Englishman, born in Bourne in Lincolnshire in 1825.
Worth previously worked and trained at two department stores in London, Swan and Edgar and Lewis & Allenby, before moving to Paris to work at Maison Gagelin. It was here that the young Worth began to sew and have dresses made up for clients. He was enthusiastic and full of ideas, in fact rather too many for Gagelins. Having met and married his wife Marie, in 1858 Worth set up his own couture house at 7 Rue de la Paix. He was the first couturier in the street. Napoleon III had been restored to the throne of France in 1852, making Paris once more an imperial capital and the setting for numerous state occasions.
To mark the restoration, Emperor Napoleon gave three balls in honour of his wife, the Empress Eugénie, at the Tuileries. One of the guests at the first ball, Mme de Metternich, the wife of the Austrian ambassador, was wearing a Worth dress. The Empress noticed it immediately and Princess Metternich recounted the following conversation in her memoirs: “May I ask you, Madam,” the Empress enquired, “who made you that dress, so marvellously elegant and simple?” “An Englishman, Madam, a star who has arisen in the firmament of fashion,” the Princess replied. “And what is his name?” “Worth.” “Well,” concluded the Empress, “please ask him to come and see me at ten o’clock tomorrow morning.”
When the Empress and a large retinue travelled to Egypt in 1869 for the official opening of the Suez Canal, the visit was of primary diplomatic importance and so she turned to Worth to ensure she looked her best to represent the glory of France. Napoleon III’s reign collapsed in 1871 and in the aftermath of war and revolution, with a dearth of money and grand occasions, Worth turned to English and American clients and once more promoted his ‘brand’. He was the first house to sew his label in each dress and the first to create much of what we might think makes up a couture house today.
There was therefore no more fashionable nor sumptuous couture house than Worth from which Almina and her mother could begin to decide on a suitably spectacular wardrobe. When they arrived at 7 Rue de la Paix, Almina and her mother would have been conducted into the grandeur of the house before ascending a staircase to the main showroom. Prices were always eyewatering, much as they are today, but luckily money was of no consequence to Almina’s father, Alfred de Rothschild.
Charles Worth died in 1895 but the House of Worth continued on as Charles was succeeded by his two sons, Gaston-Lucien and Jean-Philippe, who also became renowned for their fragrances. The Countess of Carnarvon continued to visit Paris and the House of Worth until the First World War.
45 Comments
How lucky she was to wear such a gown.
Dear Lady Carnavon,
Thank you for this article. I love haute couture, and Charles Worth is at the origin of it. There is a temporary exhibition in Paris (Petit Palais) presenting clothes, accessories with rare pieces. Sylvie.
As a seamstress, I always love to read stories about fashion. The House of Worth figured prominently in that era. Thank you Almina’s story. Great read .
Thank you
What an interesting story. Almina was such an interesting person
She was amazing
Very interesting item. The only thing that I knew of Worth was their perfume, Je Reviens.
Good name !
Yes, I loved that perfume. I use to wear it and have a couple of empty bottles. I so wish you could still get it.
I have a bottle of JeRevien with maybe 1/4 of an inch remaining
Lovely the.pictures of worth of Paris and did you have and lord Carnarvon have a wonderful weekend and lam fan of Downton Abbey and highcelere castle
What a fascinating topic Lady Carnarvon! Would you know if there is a museum that would have some of Worth's dresses on display?
Sadly, I don't know of any dresses that are on display but I would imagine the Victoria and Albert museum in London may have some.
Maybe there are some in the V&A in London?
Being a collector of mini perfume bottles, the minute I read “Worth of Paris I immediately thought of the frosted sphere shaped bottle with star motif all around it and hoped perhaps a mention of the house’s contributions to fragrance might be included and you did not disappoint. As I watched #Downton I often wondered about the scents of the time and even asked the lovely Alastair Bruce for his thoughts on the matter on what was then Twitter.
Thanks for all you do, thanks for the joy of #DowntonAbbey, and for the fragrance reference today.
If any of your research turns up other references to fragrance, either man made or naturally occurring I’ll await their appearances here. Take good care.
Love these insights ~ keep posting!
What an interesting piece of history Lady Carnavon. I always enjoy reading your posts and I thoroughly enjoyed the two visits I have made to Highclere.
Thank you
Amazing information and great to hear how they lived in the 19th century and early 20th century.
Thank you for this wonderful history of Worth.
It is a great story..
Thank you for sharing yet another interesting story!
An interesting story. I have just completed reading your book The Earl and the Pharaoh so knew the names of Mrs. Wombwell and her daughter Almina. A fascinating story about your family and the late 19th and early 20th Century and the connections to Egypt etc. I hadn't intended on bringing the book back from Italy, once read, but found I couldn't leave behind. The book is now in the bookcase.
I remember the store Swan and Edgar, in Piccadilly, from when I worked in Jermyn Street in my early career. There are still some wonderful stores in that area.
Best regards,
Thank you!
Dear Lady Carnarvon,
A very interesting piece on a subject I am not well-versed in. Thank you for this insight into the world of yesteryear.
Such fascinating information to read about. I adore reading historical facts and this was fabulous. Thank you for sharing. Have your books to read while I travel this summer. You’re such a blessing
Please plan to share any details you have of the wedding!
Thank you for keeping history alive.
Another such interesting read
Your knowledge lady Carnarvon is amazing and so good to read
Many moons ago when working in London Swan and Edgar was one of my favourite stores ,
Thank you ,
I love this. It is very interesting to note that Worth set up menu things for couture that remain to this day, as I think many feel it's all been about Chanel (as much as I love the look of her classics) in Paris. So it's wonderful to be know that Mr Worth from Lincolnshire was the catalyst for so much of what we see today. Thank you for
sharing this with us all Lady Carnarvon .
What an amazing story. The dresses were gorgeous!
Such an interesting story!! I always thought that history and fashion are deeply linked when analyzing a special period of time. Coco Chanel and 2nd. World War, and so on.
My mother, in Argentina, always used WORTH´s perfume: Je Reviens. This article reminded me of her. Thank you!!!
Lady Carnarvon,
I can only imagine wearing a dress "so marvellously elegant and simple!"
And changing four times a day...
Thank you for writing about one of the early fashion houses.
I wonder what happened to Almina's Worth-designed wardrobe?
A facinating story about the house of Worth,
I believe that Worth didn't let you choose. He would have the client walk up and down and then tell them to return in a week when a suitable ensemble would be waiting. He knew best. He also started political dressing. When he produced a dress that was not to the Empress's liking, he told her they needed to support the Silk industry and she could do that by wearing that dress and promoting that silk.
He had confidence !!!
wonderful article again! very interesting indeed.. might I point out a slight error though: the beautiful lady in a white ball gown is not Mme. Metternich, but Elisabeth, called Sisi, the Empress of Austria. It’s a lovely picture and very prevalent and famous, so it is understandable that you happened upon it.
I always love your articles and hope I will make it to your beautiful castle. With fond regards from Vienna, Anna
I should have annotated it - it was apparently a Worth dress - she was a prominent client of his
Having just recently visited the Sissi museum in Vienna and seen the original of this portrait, I can confirm what you already know, that it is believed that Worth designed that spectacular dress with the "thousand foil stars" under the tulle, to match the 27 diamond stars in her (most spectacular of all) crowning glory hair. Thank you for this fascinating article. I worked in fashion most of my life and it is a subject I enjoy very much.
Lady Carnarvon,
Thank you for another interesting story of how a great ‘brand’ was started. Admiring beautiful fashion designs is probably a hobby of many well-dressed women! We appreciate your assistance!
Martha
The picture of Empress Elisabeth of Austria is stunning! It shows Sisi in the "Sternenkleid". This dress doesn't exist anymore, there are only replica of it . The Empress destroyed all of her not black clothes after her son's death.
She was beautiful- such sad story
Thank you, Lady Carnarvon,
What a wonderful story and insight into Worth. I had read about him but did not know he was English...................I had a lovely life long friend who was a seamstress from Liverpool and she sadly passed away......... she would have loved this article. She made wedding dresses and could make a man's suit in day..........
Once again, thank you.
Thank you!¬
A very interesting topic for the upcoming anniversary of the wedding of Lady Almina to Lord Carnarvon. If you have any more photos to share of her fabulous wardrobe, I am sure we would all love to see them. I also think it’s great that the preeminent name in French fashion was an Englishman! I wonder if a documentary has been made on Worth. I would watch it. Thank you again for your wonderful blog.
Suzanne in Georgia, US
Loved reading about Mr Worth in Paris. There’s an exhibition of Worth in Paris at the moment, would be wonderful to go.
https://www.petitpalais.paris.fr/en/expositions/worth-0
All of your posts transport me away but this one will stick in my memory. Universal to dream of beautiful gowns, isn’t it? Thank you for the history lesson.
What a very interesting article and the dresses just amazing.thankyou
Lady Carnarvon,
What a wonderful blog entry this was. I have always been enamored with fashion and my mother was a successful ladys wear designer; so I grew up with quite an extensive knowledge of fabrics and design. My grandmother also wore Worth fragrances, and I remember that even the bottles were gorgeous. How exciting it must have been to be able to afford and order dresses form these couture houses. Thank you for sharing your beautiful and interesting stories with us. I so look forward to your Monday entries - just lovely.
Thank you
I really enjoy all of the history posts and really look forward to my visit in August!
We very much look forward to welcoming you!
Thank you so much for a fascinating article! It would be wonderful to see a picture of Lady Almina in her wedding gown if you have one. She must have been lovely!
A very interesting missive. I have always loved the fashions of the time, thinking women looked so very elegant. Of course, that was only for the upper class as everyday women would have been encumbered in their daily routines. Still, it was an elegant time.
Thank you for a reminder of long forgotten beauty.
Thank you for a glamourous blog! I did not know that it was Worth who had designed Empress Sisi's gown in that picture. Certainly very delicate and gorgeous and it showed off her wonderful hair.
Muddled empresses? I so much enjoy your weekly blog, every time learning something new and gaining new insights. This week, however I beg to differ in one respect: the wonderful full-length Winterhalter portrait does not show Empress Eugenie of France, but Empress Elisabeth of Austria. No doubt a fashion icon in her day, often referred to as the most beautiful woman of her time and tragically assassinated in Geneva - and still much loved and admired in Austria even today. I am thrilled that at last I will be able to visit Highclere this July and am looking so much forward to seeing the castle I have so much read about in your wonderful books!
I should have annotated it – it was apparently a Worth dress – she was a prominent client of his
La Maison Worth! C'était du grand Art...
Gorgeous Dresses...
Lady Carnarvon,
Love this beautiful history of fashion. It is fun to know Lady Almina and Empress Eugene wore Mr. Worth's designs. And the first to sew his on label. Amazing.
Dear Lady Carnarvon,
thank you for this artiche. It's a pleasure to read it. Sometime I think how beautiful it would have been to live in that period and see the beauty of certain ways now disappeared.
As a quick side note, I will mention that Je Reviens was also the name of Rebecca's boat in Daphne Du Maurier's eponymous book.
I do find the history of fashion fascinating and am glad that these are so well documented.
Wonderful post, Lady Carnarvon. The House of Worth is legendary.
Wonderful story! We need to find a picture of that wedding dress! My great grand-mother on the Texas prairie in late 1800's made beautiful clothes for herself...I have a blouse and panelettes with inlaid lace and I think the waist was about 15"...after having 9 children. Also, a beautiful capelet with black sequins. More stories like this please!
Thank you
Ma chèrrie , Lady Fiona
Bonjour du Brèsil,
Mansion WORTH in Paris á la rue de la Paix, 7 au 19• siècle c'est " la créme de la crême ".
Mais la mode au 20° siècle à change plus depuis deux WW.
Les americaines change le monde est la mode mondiale avec" le blue jeans " ...
Et la mode française avec son glamour change trop...
Les progrèss est le nouveau costumes c'est le prix qui le monde à payent pour le nouveau AUJOURD'HUI.
Merci...
VILA ALEMÃ
RIO CLARO-SP
BRAZIL.
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Today's blog was fascinating. The dresses of that time were so intricate and detailed. I would love to see them in person. Thank you for sharing,
Pam