The Soundscape of Home
The Soundscape of Home
I first visited Egypt with Geordie in 2004. We were helping to lead a tour following in the footsteps of the 5th Earl of Carnarvon. It was a magical experience and throughout it I kept a diary. I usually wrote in pencil and often my thoughts were not very long!
I was inspired by the diaries of the intrepid Victorian traveller and Egyptologist Amelia Edwards without any claim that my commentary was of the same ilk. However, I kept it and, years later, managed to find said diary amongst the mess of my desks and shelves. In a sense it was an archaeological project of my own.
More recently, as I started to research my book “The Earl and the Pharaoh” and needed all possible records to hand, I rather doubtfully opened my diary, wondering if I had in fact written anything useful at all. My pencilled notes began with descriptions of the sounds of Egypt: the haunting calls of the muezzin echoing across the sunrose tinted rooftops, the sound of the Nile and the distant chatter of boatmen determined to sell you something and passionate about telling you stories of their country.
The sound of horses’ hooves on the roads, the continual hooting of car horns and muffled noise of car tyres, the birds wheeling above and the calls of children enticing tourists to buy more cotton shawls, handmade toys, prints or jewellery. Much of it must have sounded the same as when the 5th Earl was sitting on the balcony of the Winter Palace, enjoying one of his Turkish cigarettes and reading as he looked across the Nile.
What would the soundscape have been like in the time of Tutankhamun? The Nile would have lapped at the boats, there would have been trumpets to greet a King or senior statesman, the calls of horses pulling carts or being shouted at as a chariot swept by would all have been there. Priests may well have been calling the populace to prayer, men shouting for trade or women laughing and chatting as they made their way along the streets. There would probably have been more birds and animals as it was far greener then and overall, far more colourful and undoubtedly there would have been much more noise from cows, donkeys, monkeys and dogs.
However, it is very hard to “read” sounds from the words and texts of yesteryear. Even today where the soundscape of much of our life at Highclere is something I can share through Instagram or the videos from quirky places which make their way to Friends of Highclere, it is not the same as being here. You cannot wholly replace the reality of hearing as well as seeing the little robin in the yew tree or the red kite wheeling over a cedar tree plus it is also often rather challenging to unite what the eye sees, and the ear hears on a video.
As with any place, sounds and noises define my sense of Highclere so I know when I am back. First of all, the dogs will be barking, rushing around, snuffling and picking up presents to give me. The gravel all around the Castle is very distinctive and if you have watched Downton Abbey, you may well be able to recall the crunch of Carson’s polished shoes as he walks across it. Then you have the bells and chimes of our clocks which often caused Downton a few problems as they did not always marry up with the timeline of the script!
Sounds are amazingly atmospheric. The Downton Abbey opening credits open with a servants’ bell board, with the ringing sound a call to action. Poppy the labrador is very fond of the resounding dinner gong, expectant at the possible treats it implies. I find it rather curious that so many people today wear ear pods and headphones when out for walk thus echoing only their own thoughts or conversations and missing out on all the sounds around them.
Walking through Luxor in Egypt today I rarely see any such headgear – just the sights and sounds of everyday life. If you have not been to Egypt, please add it to your list. I thought I might work to put together a programme for a few days in November 2027 – it is an extraordinary country.
31 Comments
We had a similar experience as you did when we went on a Viking Cruise to Egypt and then added a week in Jordan. The many sounds of Cairo and the many towns around are very distinctive and haunting in their own way. Egypt and Jordan are beautiful countries and the people are a delight.
They are extraordinary places - yes great local poeple
I would love to hear about a November 2027
Tour to Egypt. Had planned a trip abd to Jordon just as war broke out in Israel.
We were advised against going.
I’m an ambassador at the Virginia museum of Art VMFA and always love going into the Egyptian
Gallery. Enjoyed your Egyptian exhibit at Highclere as well. Mcarol Lynn Forman
Thank you very much - Luxor - where the Valley of the Kings ilies - is 400 miles south of Cairo which offers tourists options
Lady Carnarvon,
Thank you for highlighting this sensory aspect of our lives. As a totally blind person sound and scent always intrigue me. They ad so much beauty, nuance and richness to our world and our experience of it. And it is a shame how much of it is overlooked, minimized or missed in our fast paced world today.
One of my favorite exchanges on what was then Twitter was a lovely chat I had with Downton’s resident historian Alastair Bruce regarding the fragrances that would have dominated the times in which Downton Abbey was set. And since I am an avid collector of bells concentrating on brass bells either made in or depicting things from the British Isles, I, like your doggies always loved the bells and chiming clocks of Downton also.
Whenever I hear the beloved Westminster Chime tune, I fondly recite the words of the Brownie Bells song as it makes a lovely prayer.
Thanks again for highlighting some of the other wondrous senses we humans possess. And if your research through the archives highlights any other mentions of scent, please do share.
Stay well, take good care and thanks for all you choose to share with us.
I would love to hear about the trip you plan in 2027. Yes, we must all take out our earbuds, headphones...etc...and listen to the beautiful world around us!
I think it makes us calmer to listen outside rather than just echo our own thoughts
Having visited Egypt in 2024 in November, it would be lovely to go back if you do organize a trip. Question?!? The lovely painting you posted of the Egyptian market street, who is the painter?
I have never looked at the painter! I think the 5th Earl bought it. - will check
Having been to Egypt, this was a lovely reminder of the significance of its sounds. I so enjoyed your book, “The Earl and the Pharaoh. Please keep us posted on your plans for a 2027 trip!
It is a wonderful thing to become present and connected to the world around you. I was a music teacher and taught remotely during the Covid closures in the USA.
One of my assignments for students was "Sound all Around". They were to listen and note all they heard in their environment. Some were lucky enough to have a yard to sit in, and listen to the sounds of nature!
what an interesting approach in such a challenging time !
I have been to Egypt, a cruise from Luxor to Abu Simbel a good few years ago now but it remains in the forefront of my mind. At the time I had a cine camera, (how dates does that sound now ?!) which I bought for the holiday so I’m able to look back with very fond memories. I agree totally with about all the sights and especially the sounds, magical and breathtaking too.
As someone else mentioned, our sense of smell is important too. When we last visited San Francisco, where my husband and I first met, I realized that I could take photos of Golden Gate Park but I could never capture the fragrance of the eucalyptus trees.
How lovely!
Egypt has been a draw for me since I was 10. My teacher went on holiday there and came back with incredible stories and we studied Ancient Egypt for the res of that year, Fast forward I volunteered for the Rameses Exhibition several years ago when it was in Dallas. We now support two children In Egypt through our church. Going there would be amazing.
What a marvelous post. I too have been to Egypt but the GEM was not open yet. So I definitely want to go back.I read the Earl and the Pharaoh of course.
You will have lots of people who want to go in 2027. Please tell all of us first!!
We visited Egypt, and it was amazing. The balloon ride over the Valley of the Kings and Queens, the pyramids, the tombs and I rode a camel....sooo scary. I read The Earl and the Pharoah and loved it. We are visiting Highclere
Castle next month. so excited.
See you soon
My husband and I are interested in going to Egypt. Please keep us posted if you
should indeed do a walking tour in November in 2027. We would love to see this magnificent
city through your eyes.
The sound of shoes, carts or tyres on gravel - oh what a wonderful sound!
Lady Carnarvon,
“Hearing” the sounds in my mind as you described them was such fun. I laughed silently when I remembered dear Carson scrunching along! One can easily go back in time to ‘hear’ the sounds of Egypt of centuries ago along with the tinkling of bells on the Downton bell board. The birds chirping as Spring is awaited…. Nature is good! Martha G..
Nature is key to our life - we are part of it although we seem to forget quite often !!!
The sights and sounds of Egypt will long remain as the most memorable trip I have taken on a Viking cruise. It seems to be non-stop action, with vendors of all ages coming at us, selling anything while on boats, donkeys, land, and carts. The experience of being there should be journaled as you did to relive that time of your life that history was amazingly revealed, and discovered in person
Thank you for reminding me of the sounds that make an important part of the experience, too. The quiet hot air balloon ride over the Valleys of the Kings and Queens, and the peaceful ride on the Nile were so peaceful and spectacular.
Thank you Lady Carnarvon. My wife has this subscription and frequently she shares a chapter with me. I love all that she passes on. The Grand Egyptian Museum looks amazing. I would love to go and see all that you have shared and that grand museum.
We are looking forward to our trip to Egypt in September. Fingers crossed. To prepare for our Viking adventure im currently reading your book, ‘The Earl and the Pharaoh.’
Lady Carnarvon we visited High Lee Castle two years ago. Unfortunately it was too early for a tour of castle but tried to take photos from the distance. We met your photographer/security/do anything, everything and he was so accommodating. A beautiful area of the country and saw the sheep grazing in the fields on the road down to the Castle. I was in awe of the whole scene. Your trip your planning for 2027 sounds wonderful.
My husband and I also visited Egypt it is a magical place as you say with all the sights and sounds. I recall the smells of the spice market and small children huddled together with their small fingers making boxes using tiny pieces of shells. Visiting the pyramids was special too, riding a camel outside and then entering the pyramid itself and seeing where the person was laid to rest. We also cruised along the Nile and visited Karnak. Egypt should be on everyone’s Bucket List!
Carolyn Dear, Montreal. Canada
Lady Carnarvon
My friend Eileen and I visited your
beautiful home at Highclere last
September. What a fabulous day
we had celebrating the 80th
anniversary of VE Day. It has long
been a dream of mine to visit Egypt.
Please add my details to your list.
Sincere thanks and kind regards,
Cora Guinane, (Ireland)
Dear Lady Carnarvon:
Thank you for this Monday's blog and the accompanying photographs.
Enjoyed listening to your book "The Earl and the Pharaoh".
Do you know who painted the scene of Cario from a century ago?
Have not been to Egypt, so your proposed November 2027 travel plan sounds enticing.
Perpetua Crawford
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Lovely the pictures of the soundscape of house and did you and lord Carnarvon have a wonderful weekend and lam fan of Downton Abbey and highcelere castle